Xfinity.com/unpair

Hi everyone.
I recently moved from an XB7 to an XB8 Gateway. When I had the XB7, the xFi Pod was recognizing the Ethernet connection for wired backhaul via MoCA adapters. However, Ethernet backhaul is not working with the XB8. Please see the below for the connection flow:
Path: XB8 —> Ethernet —> MoCA 2.5 adapter —> Coax —> MoCA 2.5 adapter —> Ethernet —> xFi Pod
I followed the steps in the xFi Pods FAQ and validated the firmware versions — 5.8p5s3 on the XB8 Gateway and 3.4.1.21 on the xFi Pod. I also removed the MoCA adapters and tried a direct Ethernet connection to the XB8 Gateway with no luck. I validated that MoCA on the XB8 Gateway is disabled. I rebooted both the XB8 Gateway and xFi Pod multiple times and unpaired and re-paired the xFi Pod.
What else can I do to troubleshoot this issue? Is this a bug? Having the Ethernet backhaul makes the connection so much faster. I routinely had 600 mbps on the xFi Pod with the backhaul on the 1.2 gbps plan. Now I get 75 if I’m lucky.
Thanks in advance!
Edit: Added screenshot.

Hello Xfinity support,
I have not been able to get service on my CableCARD using HDHomeRun Prime since August 24th. The error is always "Authentication Success, Validation Required". The CableCARD is properly inserted and have called several times to paired. I have spent many hours (>12) of my own time contacting Comcast, driving to Comcast, and trying to help fix this issue. I have tried:

• 5 CableCARDs
• 2 HDHomeRuns
• An entirely new account on the same address (Xfinity accidentally cancelled my account and deleted my ACP and promotion). Had to call in to remake it.
• Direct connection to Coax from outside
• 12+ phone calls to Xfinity. 2 hours round-trip driving to Xfinity stores.

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The exact issue is that there are no channels anymore. There is a CableCARD authentication/validation problem. The HDHomeRun is properly connected to the card. It reads that there is an "ARRIS/Motorola" card and says "Authentication Success". But "Validation" fails, and thus I get no channels.
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I have been calling since August 24th about this issue. Here is an approximate log of this events:

• August 24th: 1st call on original CableCARD. Issue started when only local channels were appearing in my channel lineup, and basic programming like CNN stopped working ("Not Subscribed" error). This happened all of a sudden. Everything was working for over a year without any issues. Attempted reset signals and repairing, no luck.
• August 25th: 2nd call. Attempted reset signals and repairing, no luck.
• August 26th: 3rd call. Was promised a call back from "Advanced Repair".
• August 27th: 4th call. Tried contacting for "Advanced Repair". Call dropped.
• August 29th: 5th call. Rep said they would send me a new card.
• August 31st: 6th call. "New" CableCARD arrived (clearly used with dents and dirt). Tried to pair this CableCARD. Now, receiving no channels due to Validation Error.
• Sep 1st: 7th call. Was told that a maintenance event on Sept 2 would fix the issue. Issue was not resolved.
• Sep 2nd: 8th call. Attempted reset signals and repairing after maintenance event, no luck.
• Sep 3rd: 9th call. Attempted reset signals and repairing after maintenance event, no luck. Tried unpairing and repairing card, no luck. Was told there was a ticket number CR053053193 and the issue was being worked on. I stayed patient.
• Sep 7th: 10th call. New Problem: Mystery box from Xfinity arrives with nothing in it. Called in to mentioned this and then tried to solve the original issue. Was told the box is nothing to worry about. Then, Another Problem: Was told to drive to a store 30 mins away to pick up new CableCARDs to try to solve validation issue. I go to the store, and in the middle of the process my ENTIRE account gets disconnected (including Internet, ACP, and promotion). Spent hours on phone that night just trying to get the account back.
• Sep 8th: 11th call. "Advanced Repair" called. They said that a new CableCARD will arrive and they will call back to check if it worked.
• Sep 9th: 12th call. Another "new" CableCARD arrives. Was clearly used. Tried to pair it again, same issue (Validation problem). Was again told to wait for another maintenance event on September 12th.
• Sep 10th: 13th and 14th call. Was told to buy another HDHomeRun Device. I bought another HDHomeRun device. I drove to the Xfinity store, again, and also got 2 actually new CableCARDs. Spent >2 hours on the phone tonight trying to activate BOTH of them on BOTH old and new devices, and still the same issue.

This is not an issue with my equipment. It's very well maintained and in a clean environment. I have tried 2 HDHomeRuns, in great condition, and 5 CableCARDs. The HDHomeRun and my cable modem are both located extremely close to the cable main, where they receive great signal quality. The only thing between them is a MoCA filter (we do not use MoCA in our home, this is the Comcast-provided filter to block outside signals) and 2-way, Comcast-provided splitter. Both are in good condition. Everything is grounded properly and wired with quad-shielded RG6. I have tried repeatedly with a direct connection to the main as well.
There is something wrong on Comcast's side. I have ruled out all of the factors on my side.
Kindly, I would like to help to get this issue fixed and would like an additional service credit. This has been too much time spent for a customer to have to figure out on their own. I am getting tired of chasing this issue. I haven't had TV service since the 24th.
Whatever you do, please do not disconnect my account again. :) I already lost all of my discounts once, and I'm now paying more for a service that is still broken.
Thank you.
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ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
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HDHomeRun System Log

19700101-00:00:05 CableCARD: Arris/Motorola card (0000:0717) 19700101-00:00:05 CableCARD: authentication status: authentication in progress 19700101-00:00:05 CableCARD: authentication status: authentication success, validation needed 20220911-04:13:19 CableCARD: time changed from Thu Jan 01 00:01:04 1970 to Sun Sep 11 04:13:19 2022 

HDHomeRun CableCARD Status

CableCARD Status Card Manufacturer Arris/Motorola Card Authentication success Card Validation none 3DES encryption supported OOB Frequency 104.200 MHz OOB Lock 2.048 Mbps Signal Strength 100% (5.1 dBmV) Signal Quality 100% (39.4 dB) Channel List none 

HDHomeRun Additional Info

VCTID: 3017 OOB Msgs: 15914 VCT: 0 OOB-rate: 2 Conditional Access Con: No EBCP: Yes Val: ? 0x03 

HDHomeRun Support Says:

If the VCTID is something other than 0 but VCT/VCT Rcvd is 0, this indicates that the CableCARD has been configured incorrectly by the cable provider and is not receiving a channel lineup as a result. The provider will typically need to change the hub or headend setting associated with the card in their system. In the case of Comcast, this is not something that can be performed by a phone representative. Either the phone representative needs to escalate the issue to the local operations/warehouse/addressability people, or a tech needs to visit, and make a call to those same people and have them correct the setting.
https://www.silicondust.com/support/troubleshooting/#channel-scan-stops-immediately-with-no-channels

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Nota bene: This post describes the process of my switching from Wink to Hubitat. My primary reason for doing so has nothing to with Wink or i.am+ as corporate entities, so I hope any discussion that ensues will focus on the relative strengths and weaknesses of the Wink Hub 2 and the Hubitat Elevation.
Earlier this month, I had indicated that I planned to switch my hub from Wink Hub 2 to Hubitat Elevation. Several people asked if I would a detailed description of the process and difficulties I encountered. This post is for them and anyone else considering a similar move.
Why did I initially choose Wink, and then why did I switch to Hubitat?
I chose Wink as my controller in 2014 because: a) I saw it at Home Depot and it looked cool; and b) I was impressed with the collection of radios that the original Wink hub had (zwave/zigbee/Lutron ClearConnect/BT/Kidde/WiFi). I assumed that over time, Wink would add support for multiple devices that used these protocols. After ~2 years of using Wink hub 1, with its WiFi vagaries, I switched to Wink Hub 2 with some misgivings - I was dissatisfied with the Wink’s lack of sophistication while designing automations (robots), and also the large number of unsupported z-wave device types. OTOH, migrating from WH1 to WH2 was easy and didn’t need unpairing/re-pairing.
Early in 2017, I started using Stringify to design my automations, and everything was good (albeit a little slow - because automations ran in the cloud). However, Stringify permitted really sophisticated automations compared to what Wink did with robots, so the combination of the two was generally A Good Thing^TM
Early this year (February ’19), I started hearing relatively reliable rumors that Comcast were likely to discontinue Stringify (possibly incorporating some of their technology into Xfinity Home), but the bottom line was that I would lose the automation engine that ran my house. That prompted me to switch controllers - I wanted something that was generally within my budget (ruling out HomeSeer), and where I was comfortable that an update wouldn’t break my configuration. My reason for the latter was that last year, I had set up Home Assistant as a Docker instance on my Odroid, and a Home Assistant upgrade wiped out my Wink configuration within HASS, and with that YAML automations using my Wink devices - it took me the better part of a day to set it all up again. SmartThings was out because I wanted something that was entirely local, yet retained the extensive device support and automation rules that SmartThings provided.
The Hubitat Elevation hub fit what I was looking for in terms of cost, and in terms of automation sophistication. Hubitat is a small company, and may go under, but my Elevation hub will keep running until it dies - because its functions (for the directly-connected devices I have) are not cloud-dependent. Boot up is also not cloud dependent.
After choosing the Hubitat Elevation, what next?
The first thing I did was to make an inventory of the devices I had (z-wave, zigbee, Lutron ClearConnect, and cloud integrated), to determine what would work with Hubitat. I did this by spending a fair amount of time on the Hubitat Community Forums - ensuring that there were drivers for the devices that mattered the most, and functional alternatives where the Wink-connected device wouldn’t work. And I learned a few things that have proven to be very accurate and useful:

• First, I use my Wink Spotter as an accelerometer to determine when my laundry was done. Wink doesn’t support this anymore, and multi-sensor based alternatives were clearly not as functional under Hubitat as the Spotter. But, then I learned that Hubitat could use an energy-monitoring plug to determine when a dryer stopped running (assuming its 120V), and that there’s an Hubitat app designed to interpret the output of these plugs to evaluate whether a load of laundry is done or not..
• The Quirky/GE OutLink outlets were not very stable under Hubitat. In my experience, they have not been very stable under Wink either - I’m resetting one or the other of them every 4-5 days. The forums also indicated that zigbee Bulbs, like the Lightify ones weren’t functioing well a repeaters under Hubitat. So I decided to remove them from my home automation, and replace them with Hubitat-compatible devices. In total, I chose 4 Securifi Peanut plugs and 3 Ikea Tradfri outlets - all supported by Hubitat, and cost me about $100 in total. On the plus side, these outlets work great as repeaters for a Hubitat-compatible zigbee network.
• The Hubitat hub doesn’t have a ClearConnect radio, so I knew I would have to be purchase a Caseta Pro bridge (got one on eBay for $75).
• The Hubitat hub doesn’t have a Kidde radio. Rather than replace my communicating Kidde Smoke/CO detectors, I bought an Ecolink FireFighter z-wave Smoke and CO alarm detector for $35. This device sits on the wall right next to one of my Kidde Smoke/CO detectors. Now, when any of my Kidde detectors is an alarm condition, the sound registers on the Ecolink FireFighter, which is Hubitat-compatible. This was much cheaper than buying all new z-wave compatible Smoke/CO detectors.

So far, my total expense was $310 (including the Hubitat C5 and rounding up):

• Hubitat Elevation C5 - $100
• Lutron Caseta Pro bridge - $75
• New zigbee plugs - $100
• Ecolink Firefighter - $35

Unpairing from Wink and Pairing to Hubitat
Moving from Wink to Hubitat Elevation took me a total of 3 days. On the first day, I moved the Caseta and z-wave devices. On the second day, I added new line-powered zigbee devices, and then moved my Wink-connected zigbee devices. On the third day, I setup my automations (using Hubitat’s Rule Machine), and several other things - like Alexa announcements using Alexa text to speech (TTS), which is supported by Hubitat, but not Wink.
I setup the Caseta Pro bridge first, and then the Hubitat. Then I moved my Wink-connected Caseta devices to the Caseta Pro bridge. When all the Caseta switches and Pico dimmers were moved over, I added the Caseta app in Hubitat to add all of them to Hubitat at one go.
For the z-wave devices, I unpaired each and added each to Hubitat. I started with the line-powered devices first, then the sensors and remotes, and finally the locks. For the locks to work properly with Hubitat, I had to: a) Unpair them from Wink; b) Factory reset them; and c) Pair them to Hubitat Elevation.
For the zigbee devices, I first unpaired and discarded the Outlink outlets (which were replaced by regular non-smart outlets). Then I paired the seven new line-powered zigbee devices (Ikea Tradfri and Securifi Peanut). Next, I unpaired the line-powered zigbee devices one at a time, and paired them to Hubitat. The last device I moved over was the Waxman LeakSmart. All the zigbee devices moved over at the first shot, and I didn’t have to move the Hubitat to be close to any of them. So far, they seem very stable. In over a week, none of them have fallen off - with Wink, my LeakSmart valve would fall off a couple times a month, and was always difficult to control. Building a robust zigbee network with seven line-powered outlets has made a huge difference.
What about the devices that don’t work with Hubitat?
The device I cared about the most was the Quirky Spotter I used for my dryer to determine when the dryer was done. To replace it, I plugged the dryer into a zigbee appliance outlet that provides energy use monitoring, and then used the Hubitat app “Better Laundry Monitor” to determine when the dryer was done based on a decrease in power usage. Best of all, because Hubitat supports Alexa TTS, I have the Alexa devices in my house announce when the dryer is done. Works fantastically.
There’s no Android app for Hubitat, so how do you geofence, or control devices
Most of my devices with Wink+Stringify were controlled by automation, and that continues to be the case with Hubitat. Everything else, I controlled with Alexa, and that remains the same. So, I haven’t missed having an Android app. On the other hand, Hubitat does allow you to export cloud-enabled dashboards that can be accessed from any mobile device. There’s also SharpTools - I don’t use it, but boy, is it pretty!
For geofencing, I use presence detection based on my phone being connected to my home network (using a Hubitat driver called “iPhone Presence Mobile Sensor” (works fine with Android phones too). And since all my Hubitat devices (and select sensors) are visible within the Amazon Alexa app, I can geofence using the Alexa app. As an aside, because I have the Alexa app on my phone, I can use it to control my Hubitat switches, dimmers, lights and outlets, without a web dashboard.
What was the most difficult thing to change; And what about automations?
Getting the Schlage locks to pair was tough. But after that, it was all smooth. For example, using Hubitat’s Lock Code Manager app, I can add/remove codes, ad restrict codes to work only when desired. For example, activate the maid’s code only between 7-11 on the days she’s supposed to come.
I had planned the move for a month, and was comfortable writing automations in YAML and Stringify, so I found Rule Machine to be very logical. So far, I would have to say that planning the move made it easier, and being generally familiar with the basics of programming to work.
At this point, I have no more devices connected to Wink (hub, or cloud connection to the app). The move to Hubitat was far less painful than I thought it would be. On the plus side, my automations are really fast (way faster than Wink), and are all done locally. Rule Machine is really powerful, but does have a learning curve (Hubitat has several video tutorials). One the minus side, this move did cost me ~$300. I'm hoping to recoup a third of that by selling my Wink hub 2.

Hey everyone, I am in need of assistance being a new Raspberry Pi owner and I'm hoping someone can help!
So I have my Raspberry Pi 3 + a 38Khz IR receiver connected to the GPIO with RasPlex installed. I attempted to setup a remote using LIRC and it worked! However, that was just a random remote I had laying around. The actually remote that I want to use with it is the Xfinity XR11 remote for the X1 box. This is an RF and an IR remote and I was successfully able to unpair it from my X1 box (RF) and put it into IR mode. However, when I attempt to record the commands with irrecord, the majority of the times that I press a button, it says the same code (with the occasional different one). So after the recording is done, each button does all the commands randomly.
Can someone help me?
I put the remote in IR mode by holding the Setup button and pressing 987
I've unpaired it from the Xfinity X1 box by unplugging the cable box
I don't know what else to do, it's pretty frustrating as I was really hoping to use this remote, does anybody have an suggestions?
Picture of the XR11 remote
Xfinity XR11 on the Xfinity website
When the remote was in RF mode, it didn't output any signal to the IR receiver, and now that it's in IR mode it outputs the same code to the receiver every time no matter what button I press. Or at least that's what I think is going on.
my lircd.conf
Any help would be extremely appreciated! Thanks! If you need anymore information just ask!